Diploastrea

From ReefPedia

Introduction

• Kingdom Animalia
• Phylum Cnidaria
• Class Anthozoa
• Subclass Hexacorallia
• Order Scleractinia
• Suborder Faviina
• Family Faviidae
• Genus Diploastrea

Distribution- Indo-West Pacific, Batangas, Philippines, Mborokua, Solomon Islands, etc.

Description

Colonies are dome-shaped(think softball) with an even surface and may be up to 2 metres high and 5 metres across(or maybe boulder). The skeleton is very dense. This tends to inhibit fish and invertebrates from boring homes in the coral, though clams will often become lodged in a small colony and grow with it. This denseness also makes Dipo's a candidate for geothermal studies as taking core samples can reveal data about decades of temp. variations, much the way is done with porties corals. Corallites form low cones in a hexagonal shape with small openings and very thick walls. Columellae are large. Septa are equal and are thick at the wall and thin where joining the columellae. Feeding tentacles are extended only at night, though they can be induced to extend during the day with spot feeding. Colour- Usually uniform cream or grey, sometimes greenish. Color morphs do exist, these are the most common seen in the hobby. See the above picture, also a bright green corallite with a purple center is common. Similar species: None. This coral is known for having almost no variation in the size or shape of mature corralites.

Common Names

Dipo, "that hexagonal coral"

Scientific Names

Diploastrea heliopora - species most often encountered in the hobby. If there are other species kept, please list them here.

Hardiness

In general, I'd say a medium, some may consider it easy however. Once it is established, it's easy, though it can be slow to acclimate. Can take a while to establish as it may not show signs of stress right away.

Flow

Medium flow, in an area where detrius can wash over it, but not be allowed to accumulate. Dipo's tend to be large in size, so care is needed in placement as they can create dead areas of flow simply with their own mass.

Lighting

Medium lighting. Either VHO, or PC's. MH's will work, but your tank should be deep enough that the light has a chance to weaken. Please take care in acclimating your Dipo to higher light, it can bleach easily, and due to the shape, an area that is good for the base of the dipo, may be too strong for the crest of the dipo.

Placement

Naturally, they would be found on a sand bed, and they really look their best against the sand. Also, their not-too-strong light requirement, makes the bottom of the tank a good choice for them.

I do not believe placing them on a flat rock, starboard, etc... will actually harm them. However, be aware that since they grow in all directions at once, wedging them into a crevice or such, is not a good idea.

Feeding

Meaty foods, may take live brine shrimp at times. Not too much info out there...In an established reef-tank, it will get much of its nutrient needs simply from the bacteria and detruis in the water. Feedings are best done just before lights out, or an hour-ish after lights out if there is enough light to see what you are doing. You should notice clear, white-tipped feeding tentacles emerging from the corralites. Spot feeding can then be done with a baster or oral syringe.

Do not allow uneaten food to sit on top of the coral. If it hasn't eaten it after an hour or so, it's probably not going to

Propagation

Propagation can be done as per any LPS coral of similar shape and structure. The corralites do not extend very far into the structure of the coral. Given the density of the skeleton, a dremel tool is really the best option if you don't want to lose much of the coral.

First, look for any edges near the bottom that might be flaring out. These will be thinner and easiest to make a primary cut. For grow out purposes, 5-10 coralites should be sufficient. For fragging to sell, a palm sized piece or larger is recommended. Try not to cut into the flesh when it is not necessary.

Once a primary cut has been made, it is largely up to you to determine how to cut the coral. If it is a small piece, you may be able to cut into the skeleton at an angle, and cut just below the polyps. This will leave you with a few thin flat pieces of coral and a chunk of leftover skeleton.

If it is a larger piece, it may be easiest to section it into quarters or halves, and make a deep score line, then use a wedge to cause it to split. You will have to cut away any torn polyps as they might not recover, and could cause bacterial infections that spread to the healthy polyps.

Once you have your frags, you can grow them out as with any other stony coral, setting it on the sand is one of the easiest options. You should take measure to protect it from crabs and shrimp however.

Aggression

As with any coral that has feeding tentacles, it's probably a good idea to give it some clearance from other corals.

Availability

Rare, but may vary locally. This coral is not in high demand. The faster growing, more 'aquarium friendly' in shape, and often more colorful Favia's tend to outcompete it.

Other Issues

Common diseases, predators, or other notes on the coral

Growth Rate- Vertically-Slow. In the wild it only adds 3-5mm vertically to its mound each year.